Cameron Coward

Tag: cars

  • Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 Double DIN Stereo Install Parts

    Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 Double DIN Stereo Install Parts

    I recently bought a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WK2) Laredo 4×4 w/ 5.7L Hemi. It came with the UConnect stereo, which was nice. But it didn’t have navigation and I missed Carplay. I wanted to install an aftermarket stereo, but it turned out to be pretty difficult to figure out what parts are required.

    I successfully installed mine, so I thought I’d give you all a list of all of the parts you need so you can do the same. I’m not sure which other years this works for, so you’ll want to check on that. Importantly, these parts will let you use the steering wheel control buttons, the factory backup camera, and the factory amp/subwoofer (if you have them).

    The parts:

    Stereo: I used an ATOTO A6 PF, which I like a lot. You can use other models, but I would recommend finding one that is shallow. Some info I’ve found online suggests that you need to modify that sub-dash, but I didn’t have to do much for this stereo (more on that later).

    Wiring adapter: The main adapter you need is the PAC RP4-CH11, which has a special adapter for your steering wheel controls.

    Retention harness: The AXXESS Chrysler RSE Retention Harness provides the connection for the backup camera. I believe if you have rear seat entertainment screens, it might also let you connect those to your new stereo but I don’t have those and can’t confirm.

    Antenna adapter: This Metra 40-EU10 adapter lets you connect the factory antenna cable to conventional coax antenna ports most aftermarket stereos.

    Dash install kit: I used the Metra 95-6513B, but it didn’t fit my stereo quite right and I had to trim the plastic. Another option is the AI CDK652, but I can’t confirm if that works better or not.

    Trim removal tools: You’ll need basic tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, wire strippers, etc.) for the install, but on you thing you might not have is a set of trim removal tools. These will help a lot and keep you from damaging your dash.

    The install and modifications

    I’m not going to cover the full process here (there are videos on YouTube), but I do want to give you some tips:

    The PAC RP4-CH11 will come with two harnesses (with the gray plugs) and you only need to use one of them. If your Grand Cherokee has the subwoofer in the cargo area, then you’ll need the “B” unit. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need the “A” unit. The plugs aren’t compatible, so you shouldn’t be able to accidentally plug in the wrong one.

    The PAC RP4-CH11 control unit (the blue box) has a dial to select your radio brand. This is to set the steering wheel control (SWC) buttons to the right functions. For my ATOTO stereo, I used the “other” setting. But it probably doesn’t matter, since the stereo lets you configure each button’s function in software.

    There are two cables that the antenna adapter will fit in. You want the white plug, because the yellow plug is for the satellite radio antenna.

    There is a cable with a small gray square plug that you disconnect from your stock stereo. You won’t connect that to anything on your new stereo. I believe it does something for the Uconnect. I mention this because I was confused about if it was supposed to go somewhere.

    You’ll need to remove the metal frame inside the dash. There are three bolts that hold it in place. You can get it out by twisting it around. Replace one of the bolts for your chassis ground wires.

    Some sub dash modification may be required. Online info suggests that some double-DIN stereos require substantial modification of the sub dash. But all I had to do was file down some of the plastic at the corners of the outer frame so that I could slide the new stereo.

    You may need to modify the dash install kit plastic parts. My Metra kit didn’t fit the ATOTO stereo properly and I had to trim down the side with a Dremel to get it to fit.

  • How to Modify a Curt Trailer Hitch for 3rd Gen Monteros

    How to Modify a Curt Trailer Hitch for 3rd Gen Monteros

    All of the trailer hitch options currently available for third generation Mitsubishi Monteros/Pajeros reduce ground clearance below the bumper by quite a lot. The Montero’s departure angle is already less than ideal, so making it worse with a trailer hitch is unacceptable. Still, some of us need to tow.

    Montero Modified Hitch
    Modified Curt trailer hitch for 3rd gen Monteros

    To help the situation, I modified a new Curt trailer hitch for my 3rd gen Montero. This gained me about 2.5 inches of ground clearance below the receiver tube, with the tube tucked up just below the bumper. In this guide, I’ll explain how you can perform a similar modification.

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible if you hurt yourself performing this modification, if you waste your money ruining the hitch, or if it falls apart and causes your trailer to come off and kill a family in a minivan behind you on the highway. This requires proper welding and you shouldn’t attempt it if you don’t have a lot of welding experience.

    Other people have done similar modifications, but some go about it in different ways. I chose to do what I felt was the simplest method: cutting the crossbar off of the upright mounts, then rewelding it 2.5″ higher up. This illustrates the basic idea:

    Montero trailer hitch modification

    The idea is straightforward. If you’re an experienced fabricator, you can probably figure out how to do it properly just by looking at that illustration. But I’ll go ahead and explain the whole process for people who want the full story and who want to avoid mistakes.

    Supplies

    Everything linked to above (aside from the hitch itself) is just a suggestion. If you prefer other brands, go ahead and use them.

    I won’t get into the specifics of the welding here, because I can’t teach anyone how to weld properly in a short article like this. But you should be prepared for MIG welding on mild steel. Obviously your hitch needs to handle pulling the weight of a trailer, so it needs strong welds. This is not the time to try your hand at welding for the first time! Hire a pro if you need to.

    Measurements

    Before even looking at your cut-off wheels, you need to take thorough measurements. Later, when you weld the hitch back together, you will need to reference these measurements in order to make sure the hitch will actually bolt onto your truck. If you’re off by even 1/8″ in some places, it may not fit anymore.

    A few things to note that should help:

    • The two upright supports are parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the cross bar.
    • The distance between the top of the upright supports (where the bolt holes are) to the top of the cross bar is equal on both sides.
    • The cross bar does not need to move forward or backward at all, nor does it need to tilt. It just needs to move straight up by 2.5″.

    I recommend that you take the following measurements, at bare minimum:

    • Distance between upright supports (most important)
    • Distance from top of upright supports to top of cross bar
    • Forward/backward position of cross bar on the upright supports

    It is also very helpful to use your speed square and your marker to draw guidelines before you start cutting. Those lines will be very helpful when you do your welding. If nothing else, draw vertical lines from the cross bar up.

    Cut the original welds

    Put a cut-off wheel on your angle grinder, take a deep breath, and then start cutting.

    You want to cut through the welds on the four edges at each end of the cross bar (where the red lines are in the diagram above). Do your best not to cut into the upright supports at all, as that could weaken them. Just cut the welds and through the cross bar tube as close to the upright supports as you can get.

    If you have a good angle grinder, the entire cutting process should only take 5-10 minutes. This is thick metal, but cut-off wheels will chew through anything if the angle grinder has enough power.

    After the upright supports are off, switch to flap discs and sand down the welds on the upright supports until they are nice and smooth. Also remove the paint where you will be welding.

    Smooth down the cross bar ends, as well. Try to keep the edges even, so the cross bar will be easier to weld perpendicular to the upright supports. Again, remove the paint where you will be welding.

    If you want, you can use your cut-off wheels to trim off the bottom ends of the upright supports. I didn’t do so, as they are at the outsides by the tires and don’t hang any lower than the receiver tube. But if the excess length bothers you, you can trim it off.

    Spacers

    While cutting through the welds, you will have inevitably removed some material from the cross bar, which shortened it. If you don’t compensate for that, the overall width will be too short and your bolt holes won’t line up.

    You can compensate for the shortened cross bar in one of two ways: leave a small gap when welding, or add more material.

    This is where your measurements come in. If the length of your cross bar is now more than 1/8″ shorter than the original distance measurement between upright supports, then you will need to add material. If it isn’t, then you can get away with a small gap.

    In my case, my cross bar was about 0.35″ shorter than it needed to be. So I purchased two 3/16″ thick mild steel plates to act as spacers.

    I wouldn’t recommend plates any thinner than 1/8″, though. If need be, you can use a space on one side and not the other. This will mean that your receiver tube is very slightly off center, but that shouldn’t have a negative effect (as far as I know).

    Welding

    Other than ensuring that you are getting solid welds, the most important thing here is to ensure that the upright supports are perfectly perpendicular to the cross tube and that they are the proper distance apart.

    Triple check your measurements, use your marker for positioning lines, and make good use of your speed square.

    When you’re positive that everything is lined up properly, tack weld the upright supports to your cross tube. Then measure everything again. If it is still good, then finish up your welds. Follow standard techniques to avoid heat warping. If you’re using spacers, make sure they’re solidly welded to both your cross tube and your upright supports.

    Once everything is cool, check your measurements one more time.

    Cleaning up

    As with any other welding, you can use your flap discs to clean up your welds and any spatter, if you want to. Just don’t weaken your welds by grinding them down too much.

    Then use something like degreaser or plain isopropyl alcohol to wipe the whole hitch down clean.

    Finally, use your spray paint in a few thin coats to cover any bare metal. I found that a standard gloss black enamel from Ace Hardware matched pretty well, but use whatever you prefer. You won’t be able to see it, so this is mostly for rust protection.

    Install

    After the paint dries, you can follow the standard Curt installation instructions. Yes, the bolt behind the rear AC compressor sucks. No, there isn’t any real trick to it. Just be patient.

    With this modded hitch, you will either need to remove the plastic fascia under the bumper entirely or cut an opening in it for the receiver tube. I just removed it, since I can’t think of any reason to bother keeping it.

    That’s it! Now you can tow without hurting your departure angle much. The receiver tube should hang down roughly the same amount as the exhaust pipe tip, so you this is about as good as it gets for departure angle.

    Have any tips? Maybe a better way of doing this? Comment below!

  • 3rd Gen Montero Seat Upholstery Repair Guide

    3rd Gen Montero Seat Upholstery Repair Guide

    Third generation Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero models with leather seats have a very common wear point: the left side of the driver’s seat. Every Montero I’ve seen either has a tear in that spot or has already had it repaired. Professional reupholstery will look fantastic, but costs hundreds of dollars. In this guide, I’ll explain how you can repair this common tear on a budget.

    Montero Seat
    Montero seat upholstery repair

    Supplies

    To perform this repair, you will need the following:

    For the new vinyl (or “pleather”), I recommend going to a local fabric store. Take off your headrest and bring it with you inside the store, so you can find vinyl that matches well. You can order vinyl online, but you’ll spend more money and it will be much harder to find a good match.

    Buy a lot more vinyl than you actually need. If it comes in yard-wide rolls, then buy at least a foot in length. This will give you lots of material to work with if you mess things up and should still cost less than $10.

    Preparation

    As you can see in the photos, I did my repair with the seat out of the vehicle. I did that because I bought an entirely new seat from a pick-and-pull junk yard and hadn’t yet installed it. You do not need to remove your seat to do this, though it may make it slightly easier to work with. If you do remove the seat, it is just four bolts/nuts and the power seat connections holding it in place.

    Start by using a diluted degreaser and a clean towel to thoroughly clean the upholstery around the tear. You need to remove all of the dirt and grime in order for the vinyl adhesive to stick well later.

    If there is any lose, crumbling foam padding, then you should remove the bits that are coming off. The idea is to get a clean starting point.

    Cut a clean rectangle around the tear, then remove lose/crumbling foam.

    In that same vein, use your scissors or knife to cut a rectangle around the tear. You want straight, clean edges instead of the jagged natural tear. Don’t remove more material than necessary. Just enough that you have a straight-edged rectangle.

    The repair

    Using your new vinyl material, cut two rectangles of material. The first (inner) rectangle should be about an inch larger than the opening on the seat, on all sides. That inch will give you plenty of surface area for the glue.

    Cut a rectangle of your new vinyl so that it overlaps by about one inch

    Your second (outer) rectangle of new material will probably be a little larger than that. This is what will be visible, so try to make it so the edges will line up with seams in the original upholstery. As you can see, my outer rectangle isn’t actually a rectangle at all. The bottom edge has a substantial curve to it. That was to hide the edges as much as possible.

    Get your glue ready, then carefully put the inner rectangle inside the seat (under the original upholstery). Smooth it out as much as you can, so it isn’t bunching up. Then apply glue to that inch overlap. You don’t need a lot of glue, but enough that the whole overlapping surface gets coverage.

    While the glue is still wet, adjust the new material placement if necessary. Avoid getting any glue on the outer surfaces of the upholstery. Give the glue 20-30 minutes to set.

    After gluing the new inner vinyl in place, make sure your new outer vinyl will line up well

    Double-check to make sure your outer patch material will lay nicely, then cover its back side with a thin layer of glue. Immediately place the patch over both the original upholstery and the new inner material. As the glue dries, smooth out the outer patch so there are no wrinkles.

    Make sure all edges of the new vinyl are firmly glued down. Excess glue won’t be very visible after drying, but try to keep it to a minimum.

    When that glue dries, go back and makes sure all of the edges of the outer patch are flush and that you don’t have any edges pulling up. If you do, use a small amount of glue to keep the outer edges done.

    That’s it!

    Finished upholstery repair

    As you can see, mine turned out pretty well. It is visible, but it is only noticeable if you are looking for it. Even when you do see it, it looks decent.

    I’ve had mine done for a few weeks now and haven’t noticed any issues. It hasn’t peeled or anything.

    This is a cheap repair, but it still looks a million times better than a tear with foam visible.